Irresistibly beautiful Mowani

We were driving deeper into Damaraland, across ruggedly beautiful and remote areas. We were relieved to find this gas station in the middle of nowhere and filled up ‘The Beast,’ not knowing where the next one might be.

Reaching our campsite at Mowani, I was lost for words. It was set amongst granite boulders with sweeping views of the Abu Haub valley. As well as being beautiful, it had a spacious private bathroom and shower – luxury! Hot water for the shower was heated by a ‘donkey’ – a wood fired stove. If you look closely at the picture, you will see the flame from the fire, which Dag had just stoked up.

Campers at Mowani aren’t usually allowed to visit the two small ‘sister’ lodges nearby. But as these lodges receive our Hidden Places groups, we were welcomed there the next day. Both lodges have been artfully built into and around the environment, using natural materials, so that the buildings almost disappear.

The lodges are perched amid the boulders on high granite rock outcrops called koppies, with vistas over the plains and mountains.

There are plunge pools tucked into rock overhangs, bathrooms set into caves, nooks with divine views to have lunch, to relax and dream, to watch the sunset.

Sometimes it takes me a while to plug into the pulse of a landscape and start to feel its deep rhythms. But Mowani is a place that pulls you in quickly and deeply – its beauty is irresistible, surreal and otherworldly. I felt at peace here. I felt I could stay forever.